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Soundproofing a bedroom

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  • Soundproofing a bedroom

    I want to soundproof my apartment bedroom because it doubles as my music recording studio. One wall is a neighbor -- so that one needs to really be done well. There are also neighbors above and below the bedroom. Outside the other two walls is the rest of my apartment, so those walls don't matter so much. Any suggestions?

  • #2
    open cell neoprene "egg crate"

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    • #3
      Thanks! That's a great cheap option!

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      • #4
        meh. only thing about egg crate is... don't expect wonders. egg crate is only marginally effective at best.... I'm in a band and we have the egg crate at our practice space, and it just doesn't do much good.

        There is some special sound-proofing drywall on the market at QuietRock Soundproof Drywall . There's also some thick rubber mats at Acoustiblok Inc., Soundproofing, Soundproofing Materials, Sound Deadening . I've seen some product demos of both and they seem very effective, but they're also much more expensive and labor-intensive that egg crate. And if you're renting an apartment, you may not have the option of altering the structure, in which case, the egg crate may be your only easily removable option.

        For the record, another idea is to cut small holes in the drywall near the ceiling, between the studs. Fill the stud cavity behind the drywall with blow-in paper or expandable foam insulation. You can rent the machine for blowing insulation at most rental centers, or where you purchase the insulation. Expandable foam comes in small spray cans or large containers that look like propane tanks. Of course, then you gotta repair the drywall.

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        • #5
          I built a sound proof recording studio not all that long ago. The only way to "really" sound proof, is to remove the existing drywall and add R15 insulation (if the wall studs are 2x6 then R19) replace the drywall and then build a new wall in front of the existing wall with the stud centers off set to the old wall then fill this wall with R13 or R19 depending on material used and drywall, all drywall should be 5/8". We then added egg crate foam to all walls and ceilings to reduce the reverberated sound issues common with recording studios.
          Doors and windows are a huge issue when trying to sound proof, the recording studio obviously didn't have any windows other than the mix room and none to the outside world and the doors were all solid slab wood.
          In the end I could fire a Ramset gun inside with a .3 cartridge and it was almost not noticeable at all.

          Obviously this is not an option for a rented apartment bedroom, but it shows what level you need to go to to achieve sound proofing.
          Little about a lot and a lot about a little.
          Every day is a learning day.

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          • #6
            Sound proofing....

            If you don't mind loosing a bit of area, build a false wall. Leave a small space between the new wall and the old, sound insulate the new wall and cover as you would a regular with drywall. A very important thing to do is to fill all cracks and voids so sound won't transmit through them. Now....if only there was an easy way to get to the wall switches and receptacles!

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            • #7
              there is Bob use an X10 system from Leviton - you can control lights and appliances with your computer or a remote control.

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              • #8
                Remote electric....

                Good thinkin' HayZee. Sure is neat what technology has to offer us....

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                • #9
                  Well, I hate to say it, but I think most advice on soundproofing is wrong. Why? Because they always suggest "soft" materials like layers of insulation etc. These things absorb some sound ok, but what needs to happen is to have the sound reflect back from hard material... like a brick wall. Of course you can't build a mortered brick will in a rental but you could probably find "hard" sound reflective covering that would help a lot. If you don't believe me, go into one of those roadside restrooms where the walls are brick. You can't hear toilets flushing 2 feet away on the other side of the wall! And roadside sound barriers are brick. Trees and shrubs do nothing.
                  Steel or sheet metal sheets work well too. Sound doesn't go through but bounces off. Commercial sound booths rely on steel as the final barrier... to folks on the outside. On the inside soft material is used otherwise the user inside gets all the sound reflected back into the booth.

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                  • #10
                    False Wall

                    Thanks all, I think the answer is the false wall with soft soundproofing on the inside of that wall -- and a computer-controlled lighting/electric system....sounds like a major project, and will have to see exactly what is allowed in my building...

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