Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

whirlpool gas dryer won't ignite

Collapse

Forum Top GA Ad Widget

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • whirlpool gas dryer won't ignite

    Hello, I have a gas dryer, whirlpool, model # LGC8858EQ1 which was working fine until today....., when the wife said that it stopped! Of course when I checked it ...it did not actually 'stop', it tumbles, it just won't ignite or light up, as seen through the access peephole on the lower front,...My ??? is...., how do I access the components to check it out, and where do I go from there??


    Thanks, in advance for any assistance!

  • #2
    Clarification needed

    Originally posted by bobp
    whirlpool gas dryer model # LGC8858EQ1. it tumbles, it just won't ignite or light up, as seen through the access peephole on the lower front
    Please be more specific. Is the ignitor glowing when it should be heating but just not producing a gas flame (ie 'igniting') or no ignitor glow nor flame??

    how do I access the components to check it out
    On models without a separate lower access panel below the door, the whole dryer front panel usually needs to be removed to access internal components. While for the electric version of your dryer, the disassembly instructions about 'drum rollers' at the following link might give you some ideas on opening yours.

    LINK > Sears and Whirlpool Electric Dryer

    JMO

    Dan O.
    www.Appliance411.com
    The Appliance Information Site

    =D~~~~~~

    Comment


    • #3
      Dan O. thanks for the reply...the ignitor is not glowing or even a flicker, in response to the link, I did not see where to view a disassembly breakdown, or maybe I overlooked it, any ideas on how to see an illustration?
      Thanks.

      Comment


      • #4
        Originally posted by bobp
        I did not see where to view a disassembly breakdown
        I suggested the disassembly instructions about 'drum rollers' at the previous link might give you some ideas on opening yours.

        This text on the page: > ... you may have to replace the drum rollers.

        JFYI

        Dan O.
        www.Appliance411.com
        The Appliance Information Site

        =D~~~~~~

        Comment


        • #5
          Dan O. the link for the disassembly helped, I have it apart and I can't seem to find the link which guides one through the troubleshoot tests for the ignitor not igniting.

          Comment


          • #6
            Okay, I have a 110 volt tester that beeps and flashes when it senses 110 volts, I start the dryer, I have pwr to motor, motor works fine, w/ frt. cover off, I have no pwr at all to the ignitor or any of the wires on that side of the dryer. I then went to the top, I have pwr to control panel, until I switch to 'heavy' heat mode and then the other wire at end of panel, near where there power supply goes to panel goes dead, switch to med., pwr is back, but still not to lower area where ignitor and other components are...
            Now I get really lost...what would be my next thing to check?

            Again ...thanks for the help!

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by bobp

              I can't seem to find the link which guides one through the troubleshoot tests for the ignitor not igniting.
              I never said there was one (and there isn't since I said it was for an electric equivalent of your dryer). I only suggested the previous link to try to help you open the appliance up, which is what you requested.

              You can however read general information on how common gas dryer burners operate at this link:

              LINK > Generic Gas Dryer Burner Operation

              what would be my next thing to check?
              I do not know how you are testing.

              If 120 volts is not getting to the whole burner assembly, any component in the wiring circuit to it will need to be checked for continuity (not power!) to see if they're electrically open, stopping its power supply and preventing its operation.

              LINK > How do I test for continuity?


              Possibilities on your model for power not getting to the whole burner are the heat contact of the timer, the high limit thermostat, the cycling thermostat, the thermal fuse on the blower housing and even two contacts on the motor switch. Defective wiring can't be ruled out either.

              LINK > LGC8858EQ1 High Limit Thermostat

              LINK > LGC8858EQ1 Cycling Thermostat

              LINK > LGC8858EQ1 Thermal Fuse


              Besides power not getting to the whole burner, just a defective ignitor would stop its glowing but wouldn't prevent power from getting to the burner as a whole.


              If you want to consider a repair manual, the one available at the following link covers both Whirlpool gas and electric dryers.

              LINK > Whirlpool/Kenmore Gas/Electric Dryer Repair Manual

              JFYI

              Dan O.
              www.Appliance411.com
              The Appliance Information Site

              =D~~~~~~

              Comment


              • #8
                Thanks, I saw link while searching the forum yesterday and 'I' couldn't get it back again, I did not mean for it to come across that you mentioned it, I will check the links tomorrow and get back to you, thanks again

                Comment


                • #9
                  Dan O. thanks for the assistance, I checked the continuity, and found that the thermostat fuse was bad, I replaced it and everythings okay, thanks again!

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    More checking to do!

                    Originally posted by bobp
                    I checked the continuity, and found that the thermostat fuse was bad
                    The thermal fuse??

                    If so, it opening is usually a sign of a problem in the dryer, a warning! It is designed to open when the dryer overheats to try to prevent a fire.



                    A venting problem (see the following link) is the most common cause of a thermal fuse failure which should not be taken lightly nor put off.

                    LINK > How long can my dryer vent be?

                    I *strongly* suggest someone painstakingly inspect and/or clean the dryer's whole venting *all the way from the dryer to the outdoors*. The life you save may be your own.

                    JMO

                    Dan O.
                    www.Appliance411.com
                    The Appliance Information Site

                    =D~~~~~~

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      I checked the duct work, it is the flat metal used for the close situations, it comes out of the dryer, goes to the left about 24" and directly outside to a 4" vent w/ the outside hood. I was thinking that maybe it was because I had bought the dryer used from an elderly couple, it is in really good condition, and I don't know how it was used, that maybe that, coupled w/ the fact that my wife was doing back to back loads on Saturday w/out breaks may have overheated it??? But I did tell her to give it some time between dryer uses or run it empty on just 'air' to cool it down between uses for a few minutes. You think she would want to use the new fornt loader washer and dryer set up upstairs, but she says the older machines, top loader washer and the older whirlpool dryer work better. again thanks for your help/assistance and advice, coincidently my neighbors dryer did the exact same thing on Tuesday and he asked me for advice, which was the same that you gave me... his wife says thanks also!

                      Note: the duct work was clean when I looked at it.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        the duct work is the flat metal used for the close situations
                        Designed for dryer use?



                        it comes out of the dryer, goes to the left about 24" and directly outside to a 4" vent w/ the outside hood.
                        That sounds very good depending on the 'flat' ducting used.

                        coupled w/ the fact that my wife was doing back to back loads on Saturday w/out breaks may have overheated it?
                        It shouldn't have but there is a chance the fuse was just 'weak' with age. If it occurs again you should do a much more thorough investigation to get to the bottom of it.

                        JMO

                        Dan O.
                        www.Appliance411.com
                        The Appliance Information Site

                        =D~~~~~~

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          I will be sure to do that! I have the same duct 'for dryer' use installed.

                          great forum!

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Another Whirlpool Model LGC8858EQ1 That Won't Ignite

                            Just wanted to say that I was able to diagnose my "dryer's igniter not working" problem in about 5 minutes after reading the original thread. I already inspected my dryer vent and it's not very dirty at all. I will replace the thermal fuse and clean the vent just to be safe. Thanks for the lead on this repair.

                            Comment

                            Working...
                            X
                            =