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I just wanted any info as to those copper connectors that slip on called "gatorbite" if they work well and have given any problems . Im placing them at the connection of the pressure reducing valve.I also was wondering if i should leave the factory set at 50 even though pressure is 80(spikes to 120 short burst).. i was thinking set at maybe 60 or 65 psi Any feedback is helpful.
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its not really a matter if they work or not or how well, check with your building department of your town whether they are approved for installation. some building codes allow them, some not. -
gator/setting
Thanks for the reply.Yes it is allowed by codes here.Have you ever had any leakage or trouble with theses and how high a pressure can they handle up to?..mine stays at 80 but can spike 125 in short burst-on/off.I think they go up to 200 but not sure.Then I guess i can go with setting the regulator at 65 after finished installing then?Comment
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Sounds like you may need a thermal expansion tank on your water heater.
I would check to make sure the PRV has not failed as well.I stayed at a Holiday Inn Express last night.
Now I can Plumb!
For great information on the history of sanitary sewers including the use of Redwood Pipe
Visit http://www.sewerhistory.org/
Did you know some Redwood Pipe is still in service today.Comment
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no ,i am about to install a pressure-reducing-valve,and was asking on the psi setting(factory set at 50).Its not in yet...and besides that i have a 125psi pressure relief valve "inline" cold-that drains to washer drain (only drain around ) and it will drain out/relieve 1st -if at all.Once the reducer is on set -was thinking 50-60psi- and temp is set -i like 115-I shouldnt have a problem.
is 65 ok ...it read 72-80 before reducer ?Comment
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Have a look at this other post of mine discussing pressure, pressure reducing valves, thermal expansion, and thermal expansion tanks. Hopefully, it will help you understand what is happening in your system.
If the relief valve you have is opening at less than the set pressure it has failed and needs to be replaced. If you have a high pressure it is doing its job and you need to treat the cause of the problem.
The problem with push fit connections like gatorbites is they hold but allow rotation. I prefer connections to be ridgid on all planes. If you do install using a push fit connection I would recommend sharkbites over gatorbites as they are removable while gatorbites lock on permentently.Last edited by Redwood; 03-02-2009, 01:18 PM.I stayed at a Holiday Inn Express last night.
Now I can Plumb!
For great information on the history of sanitary sewers including the use of Redwood Pipe
Visit http://www.sewerhistory.org/
Did you know some Redwood Pipe is still in service today.Comment
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as i said im only placing a pressure reducing valve in..nothing has broken and ive never had a pressure problem until check valve placed in line..the pressure will be 50 ,after the relief valve will be installed,and will keep it in check as far as pressure to(not from) heater.As to the temp/expansion in heater ive never had 1 drip in 5 yrs-till valve, i keep it low at 115 or less and if it goes too high and expands-the 125 psi inline release valve will relieve it to the drain(-This is NOT the one on water heater -155psi)..again no problems just info and opinions....
-the tank will protect nothing as to the incoming pressure/possible damage to the whole house-toilets ,icemaker, washers,etc..only heater.
Thanks!Comment
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