Concrete Drive Repair - Advice Needed

[loosescrew]

Hello everyone,

I am going to attempt a DIY repair of the 1 x 12 section of my driveway which connects my garage floor to an aggregate drive. There is approx a 2-foot section which started out as large cracks, and I have since chiseled away all the loose material leaving a "pothole". This hole is 2 1/2" at it's deepest point, and approx 1 1/2" deep at the most shallow point.

I have attached some pics which should explain my repair in much better detail. My questions are:

1. What type of concrete mix should I use?
2. Are there tricks to edging the patch so that it matches the surrounding material?
3. Is resurfacing the entire 1' x 12' area after the initial patch is cured the best bet to make for a cosmetically pleasing result?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

Ben

[HayZee518]

use a concrete bonding agent FIRST before you apply the patch. Mix a small aggregate n sand mix. Pre-mixes are ok. Screed it even with the existing surface and let it set up a little. Then use a bull float to pull the portland to the surface and trowel smooth to the edges.

[loosescrew]

Okay, so something like just a regular quikrete gravel mix would work? I had some vinyl patch around but read that it wasn't good for deep holes.

Also, would it be a good idea to cover with plastic during the curing process? It normally hits 90+ here each day right now.

Thanks much.

Ben

[pushkins]

Don't let the "patched" area get too hot too quickly, if you can, once it has set up keep it shaded, this will help slow down the curing process rather than in 90 F sun. Applying water (hose down) a couple a times a day over the next few days will also help greatly.
You might also want to drill a couple of small holes in the bottom of the hole and screw in some Tapcon screws, make sure the screw heads are well below the finished surface, this will give the concrete something extra to hold onto.
As also previously mentioned by Hayzee, make sure you use a bonding agent (available at all big box stores) this will be painted onto the broken concrete surface prior to adding the new concrete.
Pretty well no matter what you do it's going to look different from the older concrete section, even if you apply a resurfacing product.


"Vinyl patch".>>>???????

[loosescrew]

Great info, thanks.

The vinyl patch is made by Quikrete...called vinyl concrete patcher (contains a vinyl resin) but appear to be for shallow crack/hole repairs).

I'm surprised that the repair will still show after a resurfacing coating. Isn't that what the resurfacing material is for, to cover up cracks and other flaws?

Thanks much.

Ben

[pushkins]

Yes it is, my reservation is in line of after you complete the repair you will ultimately have two concrete sections with a medium bond then your going to add a third over the top of the two, all three will expand and contract at slightly different amounts this will put a huge strain of the top skim coat that will only be 1/8" thick and cover the entire 12" x 12' area.
I'd hate to see you add the skim coat only to see that one crack away.

[loosescrew]

Gotcha. Thanks again for the great info.

[johnmwentz]

Re: Concrete Drive Repair - Advice Needed

When a very thin taper is needed, use a concrete slurry. It can also be used to match the existing concrete edges. However, concrete slurry may have a tendency to not bond and the concrete material can then lift out. I would recommend that you use Roklin’s FlexSet. It will bind better to the existing concrete. Resurfacing the entire 1’ x 12’ area with FlexSet would result in a more cosmetically-pleasing finish. In so doing you would not need to repair the 1 ½” X 2 ½” pothole. That would be taken care of when the entire area is resurfaced.