'Nother drywall question: mud and tape

[seamlyne]

1. When I go to the local homecenter to buy joint compound, they've got "general purpose", "lightweight", lightweight in a box, and lightweight in powder form (I think). I've visited USG's website, but can't wade through all the marketing to get the straight poop. What're the differences?

2. Paper tape, or mesh?

Just trying to refine what I'm doing. Thanks!

[pushkins]

For 90 % of what the average homeowner needs to do, the hardware versions are just fine. Make sure you get the premixed compound in a bucket (green or blue it makes little difference).
If you want to go to a whole lot more trouble you could mix up the powder with water BUT you MUST make sure you mix it well and at just the right consistancy.

Do NOT use the mesh tape, it makes the mudding so much harder, get yourself a roll or two of the paper tape, I don't know a drywaller that uses the mesh tape.

[Snoonyb]

Originally Posted by seamlyne

1. they've got "general purpose", "lightweight", lightweight in a box, and lightweight in powder form (I think).

"lightweight", or lite are available in both premixed and hot mud,(dry mix).
They finish as a a softer, easier to sand suface. The hot mud will dry sooner and can be recoated sooner.

"general purpose", material comes in several types and in a bucket or a box;;
Joint compond= used for taping on the first and second coates.
Topping= used for the last coat.

"Paper tape, or mesh?"

Paper tape is cheaper and more time consuming to apply, however should be used in interior corners.

If you are non-union and are doing production work under a bid contract, you use mesh tape, (because it self adhears so that all the tapeing can be done at one time), on all horizontal and verticle seams except the corners.

Since most of my projects are up to 200ft. of two sided 5/8 board commercial TI's, with the wall up to 12' high, I hang the board verticle so that my joints are also all verticle and with no end butt joints.

When the project is under 80', I'll use mesh tape, 40min and 5min hotmud mixed at a 2to1 ratio.
The key to this, is although it will feel cold to the touch,(an indication that it is still wet), the surface will be hard to the touch, and can be recoated, with the same mixture.The final coat is with standard topping, which will give the finish a harder surface.

Also, I sand very little. and the key to that is knife pressure and angle.

[skeezix]

Mesh tape is only for a setting compound, like hotmud. It is not to be used with regular mud because of cracking. Read the label.

[skeezix]

I just realized that what I typed sounded a little harsh. It's the curse of written explanations, they don't capture tone or inflection. I meant to be helpful with what I typed, not harsh. I meant "Read the label for further information." This forum is great, and I would never want to put a negative spin on the questions that people ask. Cheers.

[LazyPup]

About 5 years ago I was living in New Philadelphia, Ohio and during the winter work got very slow so I took a temporary job in a production plant in Dover, Ohio where they make over 90% of all the mesh tape sold. To my total amazement no matter what brandname label was on the finished product it was all the same product.

What I found even more interesting was that when they expanded the office facility they specified that "All Sheetrock Joints" must be made with paper tape. Isn't it interesting to note that a company that has millions of rolls of mesh tape in their warehouse would specify paper tape?

[Drywall DIY Guy]

I use the All Purpose premixed mud from USG in the can with the green lid. It shrinks a little more than lower moisture muds but does not cause the problematic air bubbles leading to pinholes in the surface. For DIY jobs, it is a good all around product.

I prefer paper tape over mesh, especially for butt and corner joints. The taping knife can easily snag mesh tape. Also, if you sand through to the mesh, you have a real mess.

For tips on taping, mudding, and finishing, go to http://www.drywallinfo.com