drywall - paper tape vs mesh tape

[tc4b]

Everyone I talk to seems to have a definite preference between paper tape and mesh tape, and everyone has a reason why the one they don't like sucks. As a first-timer DIY person, I would just like some opinions and reasons why. Thanks.

[Drywall DIY Guy]

I like paper tape.

With paper, I thin the mud a little (just a little) and put plenty of the mud on just a little wider than the tape. Then, I quickly pass a precut strip of paper tape through a bucket of water, shake off the excess, and place it on the mud. The paper sticks really nicely. Then, take a 4.5" knife and squeeze out the excess. The paper tape will be firmly in place with a minimum of mud under it yet no air pockets. Let this dry. I have not gotten an air pocket under the tape for the last 10 years or so. The extra moisture helps push out any pockets - A professional taping banjo also uses a fairly high moisture mud and gets the tape somewhat wet before you put it up - professionals almost always use paper tape.

With mesh, you stick the tape on and then overcoat it. You then have to skim off most of the coat or it will stick up too much. You then can easily snag the tape with the knife, leading to a real mess. Also, if you ever should sand down to the mesh, it will fray. I must confess I have not used mesh much and it was only way back when I first started taping over 13 years ago. But once I got the paper tape down, I saw no reason to go back to mesh.

I have been teaching some kids how to tape and finish for 4H - they were even able to put the paper tape on just fine.

[plasterguy]

As an old drywall and plaster repair guy, I have - like most professionals - a definite preference. For BOTH.

To explain, it all depends on what you are trying to accomplish. For regular taping of drywall joints and plaster cracks, paper tape wins hands down in my book. But there are times when you want extra strength to offset lateral movement in a crack. For that, I like fiberglass tape underneath and paper on top, applied in a special way to take full advantage of each.

I lay the fiberglass across the crack in three inch strips, side by side without overlaping. These are applied in a bed of joint compound just as you would with paper tape. Wipe down carefully, then let dry. Apply another thin coat of mud down the crack and lay the paper tape down, wipe out and let dry.

Two or more topping coats (go wide) and you have the extra strength to keep that stubborn crack from moving. Usually works.

Of course, if the movement is structural, you are not going to hold a house together with mud and tape, regardless of what you use. But for normal cracks that are just a little harder to keep closed, this method has worked great for me. Practically zero callbacks.


Hope this helps!