repairing leak/damp damage in bathroom

[mattvenn]

Hello all, been having a browse and this seems like a useful and friendly place indeed!

I hope this is the right topic for this question, it seems like its wall orientated rather than a 'catch all'. Anyhow, this is the current scenario:

We've been lazy and our bathroom is now in need of repair. The tiles had been badly laid and so plaster behind has come away from the wall behind and pushed out the tiles. Water has started leaking in so now we need to sort things out.

I'm planning to strip the tiles from the bath area (brute force) and then lay new tiles. I've had a look at how easy the tiles are to remove, and most just pop right off. In some places (where the tiles were being pushed out), the thin (2mm) layer of plaster (skim?) falls of too. In other, it stays where it is, with or without the tile adhesive.

My question is, what do I do with the old plaster thats sticking, and how do I level the wall for new tiles? I see there being 2 options:

1/- remove all down to the (what looks like cement based) plaster, but I don't really know), and then reskim and tile. Is the reskim necessary?

2/- try and fill in the holes with plaster filler and then retile.

Any suggestions? Am I on the right track?

Thanks for any help!

Matt

[armataz]

hi matt,just a quick question,is this a shower inclosure? just wondering what the water sorce is.befor trying to tackle any advise.thanks TAZ

[mattvenn]

well its a bath, but the shower is whats really causing the problem. We have a curtain on one side, and tiles on the other 3.

[armataz]

OK , you dont have to remove all the tiles , just the loose ones.
I'de use a 5in1 putty knife to clean up the loose tiles and remove the old grout and mastic from them. then evenly lay a bed of mastic where the loose tiles were removed and put them back in place. after they've had a chance to set. I'de then re-grout the tiles. at this time I'de float the all the tiles not just the ones you've put back in place,to reseal any other potential bad spots before they become a problem. be sure to not to use the tub for atleast 24 hours after you've finished it to give it time to cure. hope this helped you out.TAZ

nuthing like being woken up at 12:AM to unstop some one elses toilet.

[mattvenn]

Armataz, thanks for the reply.

I'm wanting to replace a lot of tiles, because its all in pretty bad condition. Its not just one place thats loose, but only one place thats actually come away from the wall.

So I'm thinking of stripping all the tiles from the bath area, doing what I need to to the wall underneath, and then laying new tiles.

What I don't know is what I need to do to the wall underneath, as its now a mix of what looks like cement based plaster and then skim.

Thanks,

Matt

[Jimmer]

Matt,

I would remove everything back to the studs. Examine the areas around and under the tub. Dry the area out if needed. Then install new backer board and start tiling fresh. If you find wood rot on the studs you need to dry them and you can cut out the damaged section and 'sister' new studs next to the damaged ones.

Good luck,
Jim

'Just a handyman trying to help'

[mattvenn]

Thanks for the advice Jimmer.

Some more things:

I think that the walls are all brick, so there won't be any studding to replace or get wet (hooray!). What there is is this hard cement looking plaster. It seems pretty tough and isn't eroding away. Should I leave that or try and chip it off too?

Also, any ideas as to what the layer of plaster is over the top of that? I wouldn't have thought it would be very sensible to put plaster over whatever that other stuff is, only to put tiles over the top. Maybe its to flatten it off? Should I reskim the layer on top of the bricks or just apply the tiles straight to it?

Thanks,

Matt

[Jimmer]

Matt,

You need to create a flat surface before starting to tile so if there are rough spots or gaps/voids you need to refloat the wall. The better job you do on this the easier and better the tile job will be. Whatever product you use be sure that water will not effect it.

Good luck, Jim

'Just a handyman trying to help'

[mattvenn]

Hello again,

thanks for the explanation. Just one more thing, what do you recommend to refloat the wall with? And will I be able to do this by reading up and having a practice (I've never done it before) - or should I call someone in. I'd like to do it myself if possible!

Thanks again,

Matt

[Jimmer]

Matt,

I would recommend using a product like 'Durabond 90'. It comes in small boxes or larger bags and you have to mix it with water. The two big advantages are that it 'cures' in approx. 90 minutes and it does not shrink and crack when you use it to fill large holes. The disadvantages are that you have to mix it yourself and that it is much harder to sand (be sure to underfill). If you use featherlight drywall compound only it could take a day or two for the big holes to dry.

BTW be sure to use clean cool water to mix with the Durabond. If you use warm or hot water it will set up before you are done mixing it.

Good luck, Jim

'Just a handyman trying to help'