Installing drywall over lath walls??

[driz]

I know a guy who has an1880's house, somewhat insulated and with the usual electric and trim that you find in one of those homes. He wants to do something with the lath walls lining a couple of the rooms. Question is, do you have to knock out the existing lath or can you put the sheetrock up onto the lathe without a studwall, spacers or fur strips. How do you handle the electric boxes and windows in doing so if it can be done at all? Any ideas, experiences url's or whatnot showing what to do would be appreciated.

[HayZee518]

after removing all the plaster examine the lath for dips as the new drywall will follow the contour of the wall. spacers might be needed. electrical boxes if they are metal and NOT nailed to a stud will need to be adjusted "out" to accomodate the new wall thickness. Nailed on "new work" boxes cannot be adjusted outward, so new "old work" boxes with madison clamps may be needed to hold the boxes in the wall. window casings will need custom made "jamb extensions" made and fastened to the existing casings.

[jnaas2]

You dont need to remove the lath but you may need to fur it out in places, now is the time to rewire before you hang new drywall, remove the lath where it is in the way but keep enough to fur out any studs if you need them. They sell a box at home depot or lowes that mounts on the face of the stud and has a screw that you can turn that moves the box in and out to adjust it to keep it flush with the finished wall. You can remove all the baseboard and window trim and install the drywall then build out the door jambs and window frames to make the trim flush with the new finish wall, or they sell a plastic j channel that you can install on the drywall where it meets the baseboard and casing and allows you to leave the trim installed depending upon how much time you have to spend on it. The drwall needs the butt joints to break on a stud just like you are hanging it directly over the studs so the screws hit the stud, the old lath will hold good but Ive seen a lot of nail pops because they missed the stud , I always mark where the studs are and the cieling joist and use long enough screws to hit solid wood when I hang it and you wont have any problems later

[johnaydan]

Originally Posted by jnaas2

You dont need to remove the lath but you may need to fur it out in places, now is the time to rewire before you hang new drywall, remove the lath where it is in the way but keep enough to fur out any studs if you need them. They sell a box at home depot or lowes that mounts on the face of the stud and has a screw that you can turn that moves the box in and out to adjust it to keep it flush with the finished wall. You can remove all the baseboard and window trim and install the drywall then build out the door jambs and window frames to make the trim flush with the new finish wall, or they sell a plastic j channel that you can install on the drywall where it meets the baseboard and casing and allows you to leave the trim installed depending upon how much time you have to spend on it. The drwall needs the butt joints to break on a stud just like you are hanging it directly over the studs so the screws hit the stud, the old lath will hold good but Ive seen a lot of nail pops because they missed the stud , I always mark where the studs are and the cieling joist and use long enough screws to hit solid wood when I hang it and you wont have any problems later

I agree with you jnaas, removing the lath completely is not particularly necessary.... It is rather suggested to remove the portions which obstructs your construction..

[pushkins]

It generally works out for me that about 50% of the time I can screw the drywall to the old lathe, however, at times when the walls are particularly bad it is easier to remove the lathe, and using straight 2x4's attach them to the existing studs nailed or screwed and plumb, this makes it much easier to achieve plumb drywall. The studs will stick out from the existing studs to accommodate the removed lathe. Also it aides in using new work electrical boxes and again achieving a professional finish.